Skip to main content

Kitchen Brewing Part 4: Multi-Step Mashing

Up until now, I've employed a simple single-infusion mash for my stove-top brews. It's the technique I demonstrated in Part 2 of this series. I heat the water to a set temp, add the grains, stir things up and let the mash perform a Saccharification Rest for 60-90 minutes. Outside of the occasional stir and temperature check, that's pretty much it.

For many beers, this works really well, especially with English and American Ales. However, I was getting poor extraction rates from wheat malts. My efficiency on wheat beers was dropping around 10% versus my all barley brews. What to do? Take a shot at a multi-step mash and see what happens.

The only real difference between my multi-step mash and a single-infusion one is the introduction of a Protein Rest at the beginning of the mash. For the Protein Rest, I heat my water to around 130F. I then mash in the grains, which drops the temperature to around 124F. After mashing in, I pull the pot from the stove, cover it and wrapped it in blankets for 20-25 minutes. When the Protein Rest is done, I unwrap the pot and return it to the stove.

The Saccharification Rest is up next. Since I use a pot instead of an insulated Mash Tun, I can heat up the mash using direct heat rather than by introducing additional hot water.  I do this by applying medium-high heat to the pot while constantly stirring the grains. Keeping the grains moving does two things: it prevents the scorching of the grain and helps evenly distribute the heat in the pot. When the appropriate temp is reached, the pot is again pulled from the stove, covered and wrapped in blankets or stuck in the oven on Warm for an additional 60 minutes. When the Saccharification Rest is complete, I Sparge and Boil in the same manner as I always do.

That's it for now. Up next in this series, I'll cover a stove-top Decoction Mash.

Update 8/27/13:

I've been experimenting with using an infusion mash for Multi-Step Mashing as an alternative to applying direct heat. The technique has advantages and disadvantages. With the infusion method, you don't dough in with all of your water at once. Instead, you shoot for around 1 quart of water per pound of grain. The Infusion creates a very thick Mash for the Protein Rest, which allows protease to be more effective. It also eliminates the possibility of scorched grains from direct heating. On the flip-side, a Mash that has more than two steps is harder to pull off. Unless you're extremely accurate with your infusion water temps and quantities, it's quite easy to wind up with a very thin final Rest. Controlling the rate at which the Mash temperature rises is also more difficult (I liken applying direct heat to slowly climbing a hill, while an Infusion is more like using a staircase). In the end, it's all about tradeoffs.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Kitchen Brewing Part 3: Sparge and Boil

The mash emerges from the oven. Now that we're finished with Part 1 and Part 2 of this series, it's time to Sparge. As you can see from the photo, the grains have absorbed a lot of liquid. In a traditional all-grain setup, your Mash Tun has a valve at the bottom to release the first running of Wort. The grains are then rinsed with the sparge water to extract any remaining sugars. My stove-top method doesn't afford such luxury, so a different method is called for. The grains have gained a little weight. There are a couple of choices at this point. One choice is to lift the grain bag out of Pot A and place it into the sparge water in Pot B to steep for 10-15 minutes or more. The other is to lift the grain bag up, put a colander under it and slowly pour the sparge water through the grains into the original pot. I prefer the former, because I get a better extraction rate from my grains. All that absorption means that the grains weigh a lot more than they did going i

Kitchen Brewing Part 2: The Mash

Always start your session with a beer. Now that the equipment is together from Part 1 , it's time to start brewing. I'll be brewing an English India Pale Ale for my demo batch. The beer's details will be out in a future blog. Ingredients ready to go. I'm lucky to have a homebrew shop with a grain mill, so I've crushed my grains at the store. The hops have also been measured out ahead of time to keep things simple. You don't have to do this, but I recommend it. My setup. My stove-top setup is pretty simple. Two kettles, a grain bag and a metal spatula are pretty much it. I also like using a hop bag (available for around $5.00), but it's completely optional. If you're doing all-grain brewing, canning pots work best for batches of 2.5 gallons or less. Anything larger and you'll be battling spill-overs. They also work well for partial-mash batches of up to 5 gallons, where you can top off your wort after the boil. We hav

Saving Money: Simple Yeast Culturing

A few members of the family I just finished racking my English IPA to a secondary fermentor. As part of the process, I saved some of the yeast in the primary for future use. Here then, is the start of a series of articles on yeast culturing. Back in the "good old days," homebrewers didn't have a ton of yeast choices. In some cases, brewers would even use bread yeast from the baking section of the grocery store. In practice, you hydrated the packet of dry yeast you got at the homebrew or grocery store and pitched it. The packets were cheap and worked, but there wasn't much variety to be had. Nowadays, there are several dozen strains available. While a few strains are still dry , most are liquids that come in pitchable tubes , or smack-packs . The liquid yeasts give consistent results and provide tremendous variety to finished beers, but are pricey. If you only use each pack, or tube once, you will quickly discover that yeast makes up 15%, or more of the cost