Skip to main content

Split-Batch Brewing: Adventures in Wood

It's high time a wrote some more brewing advice, so here's the start of a new series of blogs.

This series is inspired by Brad Smith's "Multiplying Your Beer" blog on BeerSmith. In his blog, Brad talks about various ways to get multiple beers out of one brewing session. His work is long on details, but short on examples, so it seems fitting that I try his ideas out and see what happens.

These articles are also an extension of a couple of previous experiments. One base beer resulted in three Abbey Beers back in the Spring. My Session Saison and Dark Saison sprang from the same base as well. The difference here, is that with Split-Batch brewing, you get different beers from a single brew day.

The simplest form of batch splitting is to take finished wort, put it into multiple fermentors and then pitch different yeasts, or perhaps add differing additional ingredients into the fermentor of each beer. In this instance, I'm working with oak aging.

Once Primary Fermentation is complete, I'll split the beer into four different secondary fermentors. The wood will be introduced for the final two weeks of aging. As a control, one of the secondary fermentors will receive no wood at all. The other three will have wood infused with either Bourbon, Rum, or Sherry. When this little project is finished, I hope to have four very different beers made from one brewing session.

The beer itself was going to be a clone of either Boulevard's The Sixth Glass, or Avery's The Reverend. Then I went to the homebrew store near my office. Once again, they didn't have everything I needed to make what I wanted. Therefore, the beer below is an amalgamation of the two, which essentially makes it my own.

Here's my full five gallon brew:

Grains:
10 lbs Rahr 2-Row
1 lb Weyermann Munich Light
12 oz Castle Cara 45
12 oz Castle Special B
8 oz Rahr White Wheat

Hops:
1 oz Sterling (5.7% a.a.): 60 min
1 oz Sterling (5.7% a.a.): 10 min

Extras:
1.5 lbs Amber Homemade Candi Sugar: 0 min
8 oz Dark Brown Homemade Candi Sugar: 0 min

Total Boil Time:
90 min

Yeast:
Wyeast 1762 - Belgian Abbey II

Mash Schedule:
Protein Rest: 124F for 20 min
Saccharification Rest: 150F for 60 min
Mashout: 168F for 15 minutes

Original Gravity:
1.085
Estimated Final Gravity:
1.015

IBU: 25
SRM Color: 21

Fermentation Schedule:
2 Weeks Primary
6 Weeks Secondary
2 Weeks Secondary with Oak
2-4 Weeks Bottle Conditioning

Secondary Fermentors:
No Oak (Secondary #1)
0.5 oz Bourbon Oak Chips (Secondary #2)
0.5 oz Rum Oak Chips (Secondary #3)
0.5 oz Sherry Oak Chips (Secondary #4)

Cost: $22 per case
Commercial Equivalent: Avery Reverend: $80 per case
Savings: $58

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Kitchen Brewing Part 3: Sparge and Boil

The mash emerges from the oven. Now that we're finished with Part 1 and Part 2 of this series, it's time to Sparge. As you can see from the photo, the grains have absorbed a lot of liquid. In a traditional all-grain setup, your Mash Tun has a valve at the bottom to release the first running of Wort. The grains are then rinsed with the sparge water to extract any remaining sugars. My stove-top method doesn't afford such luxury, so a different method is called for. The grains have gained a little weight. There are a couple of choices at this point. One choice is to lift the grain bag out of Pot A and place it into the sparge water in Pot B to steep for 10-15 minutes or more. The other is to lift the grain bag up, put a colander under it and slowly pour the sparge water through the grains into the original pot. I prefer the former, because I get a better extraction rate from my grains. All that absorption means that the grains weigh a lot more than they did going i

Kitchen Brewing Part 2: The Mash

Always start your session with a beer. Now that the equipment is together from Part 1 , it's time to start brewing. I'll be brewing an English India Pale Ale for my demo batch. The beer's details will be out in a future blog. Ingredients ready to go. I'm lucky to have a homebrew shop with a grain mill, so I've crushed my grains at the store. The hops have also been measured out ahead of time to keep things simple. You don't have to do this, but I recommend it. My setup. My stove-top setup is pretty simple. Two kettles, a grain bag and a metal spatula are pretty much it. I also like using a hop bag (available for around $5.00), but it's completely optional. If you're doing all-grain brewing, canning pots work best for batches of 2.5 gallons or less. Anything larger and you'll be battling spill-overs. They also work well for partial-mash batches of up to 5 gallons, where you can top off your wort after the boil. We hav

Saving Money: Simple Yeast Culturing

A few members of the family I just finished racking my English IPA to a secondary fermentor. As part of the process, I saved some of the yeast in the primary for future use. Here then, is the start of a series of articles on yeast culturing. Back in the "good old days," homebrewers didn't have a ton of yeast choices. In some cases, brewers would even use bread yeast from the baking section of the grocery store. In practice, you hydrated the packet of dry yeast you got at the homebrew or grocery store and pitched it. The packets were cheap and worked, but there wasn't much variety to be had. Nowadays, there are several dozen strains available. While a few strains are still dry , most are liquids that come in pitchable tubes , or smack-packs . The liquid yeasts give consistent results and provide tremendous variety to finished beers, but are pricey. If you only use each pack, or tube once, you will quickly discover that yeast makes up 15%, or more of the cost